PLAY BAR (Jan, 1954)

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PLAY BAR

Behind its attractive doors, this compact unit provides storage space and shelves for game and bar essentials.

By Stephen Kirchner

IF you entertain groups who like cards and other games, or if you enjoy sociable refreshments with your family or friends, the unit pictured here will be a welcome addition to your living room, den or play room. It is simple to construct and provides ample storage space. The gleaming Conolite surfaces are beautiful, durable and easy to keep clean.

There are three locker spaces across the front. The large center bin, pivot-hinged at the bottom, is designed for a collapsible card table. The right end section provides storage for four folding chairs. The left end locker holds cards, poker chips, games and other play items. When company comes or the family gathers, a variety of games are readily accessible.

By moving it away from the wall, the unit becomes a convenient service bar with

shelves to store glasses, refreshments and bar equipment. If desired, a small radio or record player can be included on the unit’s shelves to give the party a musical background.

Ordinary workshop equipment is sufficient to build this beautiful piece of furniture. Pre-cut all pieces required according to specifications shown in drawings. The interior bottom piece and the two interior divider pieces must be grooved as follows: Two cross grooves, 3/4-in. wide by 1/4-in. deep, are located 13 in. in from each end of the bottom piece to receive side dividers. A lateral groove, 1/2-in. wide by 1/4-in. deep, to receive the center divider, connects the two cross grooves.

A left side cross divider is to be grooved 3/4-in. wide by 1/4-in. deep on vertical center line to receive a lateral divider. The other side of the left divider is to be grooved 1/2-in. wide by 1/4-in. deep, six inches from face edge, to receive the center lateral divider. A horizontal groove, 3/4-in. wide by 1/4-in. deep, is made six inches from the bottom to receive the card table platform. Starting 2-1/2-in. in from the face edge and running from the groove that receives the card table platform, a diagonal groove, % in. wide by % in. deep, slopes out at the bottom to within one inch of the face edge.

The same procedure is followed for making the right hand cross divider, except that no allowance is made to receive the lateral divider.

In addition to grooving, the following must also be done before assembly: A small block of wood, 3/4-in. cubed, is fastened on the top face edge of each cross divider. A 1×2-in. strip, nailed to the end plate and cross divider, is recessed 1/4-in. from back edge. Shelves are held in position by 1×3/4-in. strips, fastened to each side before assembly. Footends (two required) are constructed of 3/4-in. ply and should also be completed before assembly.

Conolite is applied to the outside faces of both ends, and it may be left plain or scored, as shown in photos and drawings. Scoring is accomplished after it has been applied to the wood. This may be done with almost any circular saw blade without chipping or crazing. After scoring, use a fine brush to fill in the lines with black paint.

After application of the Conolite, the ends are fastened to the bottom plate. A slanted baffle is then inserted in the slots provided on the cross dividers and secured firmly. The assembly made up of the cross dividers is then inserted in the slots provided in the base.

The center lateral divider slides into slots provided on the cross dividers and a lateral slot in the base. The card table support is then put into position. The left end lateral divider slides into a groove in the left side cross divider.

The top frame is positioned with its cross braces lined up with the top edges on the cross dividers. The back plate is fastened to 1×2-in. strips provided on the back edges of the right end piece and the right cross divider.

The top is finished with Conolite, applied in the same manner as the ends, except that the top is not scored. Top is put in place (see photo) and fastened by screwing up through the top frame.

The shelves are also covered with Conolite and are then positioned properly between the cross divider and left end. These shelves, and the larger ones in the back middle section of the unit, are screwed into place.

Footends are next fastened in place six inches in from the ends. They can either be screwed up from the bottom or down from the inside of the cabinet.

End doors are covered with Conolite and scored, as shown in drawing and photos. They are fastened to the ends by means of piano hinges. A friction catch, available at most hardware stores, serves as the locking device.

The center door is covered with Conolite, unscored, and is held in position by use of metal pins. These pins are located one inch above the card table shelf, 3/8-in. in from the face edge of the cross dividers. The door opens down from the top, and the use of two bullet catches is suggested, located two inches down from the top edge.

The door design may be cut from Masonite or 1/4-in. plywood, and is securely fastened to the Conolite by small brads or screws. The knob itself, which is the cap of the design bottle, should be fastened securely.

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